Frigidaire washing machines display alphanumeric error codes on the control panel (or flash a pattern of status lights on older models) whenever the system detects a fault. These codes are the machine’s way of pointing you toward the problem before you call a technician. Below is a breakdown of the most common Frigidaire washer error codes, what they mean, and how to fix them.
How Frigidaire Error Codes Work
On digital-display front-load washers (2014 and newer), the code appears directly on the screen — for example, E11 or E5A. On older models without a screen, the washer communicates through blinking lights: a row of five status lights blinks to show the first digit, and the Start light blinks a set number of times for the second digit. A third-digit letter is shown by extra blinks (10 for A, 11 for B, and so on). Pressing Pause/Cancel silences the beeping, though the stored code won’t clear until the underlying issue is resolved.
Common Front-Load Washer Error Codes
E10 – No water detected. The washer isn’t receiving any water at all. Check that both hot and cold supply valves behind the unit are fully open, inspect the inlet hoses for kinks, and clean the mesh screens inside the hose connections.
E11 – Fill time too long. Water is entering, but too slowly to reach the target level in time. This usually points to low household water pressure, clogged inlet screens, or a weak inlet valve solenoid. A healthy solenoid typically reads 800–1500 ohms on a multimeter.
E13 – Water leak / pressure sensor issue. The control board has detected a leak in the tub, or the air hose connected to the water-level pressure sensor is disconnected, pinched, or has a small tear. Inspect the hose routing and check underneath the drum for standing water.
E14 – Dispenser drawer lock fault. The washer can’t confirm the detergent drawer is closed because the magnet and reed switch that signal “closed” aren’t lining up. Make sure the drawer is pushed in fully and check the switch for debris or damage.
E15 – Excess water in tub during power-up. The machine detects standing water when it’s first turned on, often from a previous drain failure or a stuck drain valve. Manually drain the tub and inspect the drain pump and hose for blockages.
E20 / E21 – Drain problem. The washer can’t pump water out fast enough. Clean the drain pump filter (usually behind a small access panel at the bottom front), check the drain hose for kinks or clogs, and confirm the hose isn’t inserted more than 8 inches into the standpipe.
E23 – Drain pump communication error. The control board isn’t receiving a signal from the drain pump, which can mean a wiring fault or a failed pump motor. This typically needs a multimeter check on the pump wiring harness.
E24 – Drain time too long. Similar to E20/E21 but specifically flags a slow drain cycle. Check for partial blockages in the pump filter, hose, or household plumbing.
E31 – Pressure switch fault. The water-level sensor circuit is out of range. Often resolved by reseating or replacing the pressure switch hose.
E35 – Overfill protection triggered. The washer detected too much water and stopped the cycle to prevent overflow. This is frequently caused by a stuck-open inlet valve.
E41 / E42 – Door lock errors. E41 means the door won’t lock; E42 means it won’t unlock. Both often trace back to a failing door lock/latch assembly rather than the door itself.
E43 – Motor tachometer signal lost. The control board can’t read motor speed feedback, which is usually a sign of a failing motor or wiring harness.
E51/E52/E56–E5F – Motor and inverter faults. These codes cover high motor current, bad tachometer signals, and overheating on the speed control (inverter) board. Repeated occurrences usually mean the motor control board needs replacement.
E66 – Heating element relay failure, and E74 – Wash temperature not increasing, both point to a heating circuit problem — commonly a failed heating element or its relay on the control board.
Common Top-Load Washer Error Codes
E3 – Lid open or lid lock failure. Confirm the lid is fully closed and the washer is level; a persistent E3 often means the lid lock switch has failed.
E4 – Load out of balance. Redistribute the laundry evenly around the drum and restart the cycle.
E5 – Washer not level. Adjust the leveling feet until the machine sits solidly on the floor.
F2 – Too many suds. Switch to a high-efficiency (HE) detergent and reduce the amount used.
Codes involving the inlet valve, drain pump, and door lock are often DIY-fixable with basic tools. Codes pointing to the motor control board, inverter, or heating element usually require testing with a multimeter and, in many cases, board-level replacement — at that point it’s worth bringing in an appliance repair technician rather than risking further damage to the unit.